Riad Numero 9, Fez
Fez sits immovable in a dusty basin, hemmed in by mountains. It is one of Morocco’s Imperial Cities, the oldest in fact; the largest intact medieval Islamic medina in the world. To truly appreciate its sprawling bulk, head towards the basin’s higher edges (a rooftop terrace close to the main entrance gate, Bab Boujeloud, is ideal) and marvel at the labyrinthine alleyways and crooked streets that form this most stimulating of cities.
Where to Stay
A soothing and serene sleeping environment is an absolute must. My favourite place to stay is the bijou Riad Numero 9 (9 Derb el Masid), which is tucked away in a nondescript alleyway close to Bab Boujeloud. It is a jewellery box of mosaic tiling, precious antiques, carved cedarwood ceilings and a very friendly in-house cat.
What to See
Spend your days getting lost in the medina (not difficult to do: even the most detailed map is nigh-on useless in a city this intricately fashioned). Fez is the country’s cultural heart, full to bursting with fine craftsmanship and traditional wares. Hone your haggling skills and be prepared to depart with your pockets considerably lighter.
Where to Eat
Stay at Riad Numero 9 and you’re in for a treat. One of the owners is a chef and as well as scrummy waffles and French toast at breakfast, you can arrange lunch and dinner to order (highly recommended and an absolute treat).
For something more laid-back try Cafe Clock (7 Derb El Magana). Perfect for chilled out evenings and light lunches, the home-made cakes are particularly delicious.
After Dark
Safety in Fez has improved considerably in recent years, however it is still advisable (especially for women) not to wander alone at night. It’s very easy to get lost and there is a significant crime rate. Most restaurants and cafes (and indeed the riads themselves) are more than happy to provide a guide to take you back to your sleeping quarters; take advantage of this offer.
Fancy a trip to this ancient city? Then don’t forget to check out our pick of luxury hotels in Fez…
TI contributor Cynthia Rosenfeld has written a great guide to shopping in Fez – it’s highly recommended reading!
Tags: Boutique Hotels, Fez, Five-minute Guide
