Freelance writer Tim Harding talks to TI about cookery classes at Essaouira’s most beautiful boutique hotel, Madada Mogador. Tim’s also supplied us with recipes for the dishes he cooked, so in the likely event that this post gets your mouth watering, you’ll be able to recreate a bit of Madada magic in your own kitchen, too…
We all know that probably the best thing about going on holiday is that you can eat out every night without having to feel guilty about it. Throughout my week in Morocco, I felt unmitigated pleasure at rolling up at the local restaurants knowing that this was basically the only way I could feed myself.
The opportunity to spend half a day on a Moroccan cookery course was a double-edged sword, though. Sure I would probably create the most delicious dish ever, but what about my relaxation time? What if I tied my apron up wrong and all the other chefs laughed at me? (As it happens, I definitely tied up my apron wrong, and had to stand with my arms in the air as it was fixed for me.)
The Class
L'Atelier Madada: Preparing Tagine
The l’Atelier Madada by Madada Mogador in Essaouira was established in January 2009, in the ruins of an old almond warehouse. The marzipan smell was quickly eroded by the daily Moroccan cookery classes that the building now hosts.
Noureddine is a cheerful man with a reassuring manner and great English, but is clearly something of a front for Madame Mona, the latest in a mysterious lineage of Moroccan culinary sorcerers. Noureddine does the talking, presenting in a relaxed style while Madame Mona demonstrates the creation of all the Moroccan standards. They do coucous with different types of meat and vegetables, the sweet cinnamony chicken pastry Pastillas and even those fancy-lookin’ Moroccan biscuits (in a separate dessert class).
On this day, we were to tackle the two absolute staples: the rich traditional vegetable soup ‘Harira’, and our very own tajine, a flavourful stew cooked in the upturned flower pot from which the dish takes its name.
Now, if you’ve spent even one day in Morocco, then chances are you’ve had at least one very tasty tajine, whether it be chicken and lemon, lamb and apricot or camel and strawberry (unorthodox, but has potential). I wasn’t confident that I could turn in something up to standard, especially since I was forgoing meat for this one so my vegetarian partner could capitalise on her one chance to taste my cooking. Georgie and I were introduced to our fellow students (or rivals, depending on your chef temperament) Halstein and his grandson Vetle over sweet mint tea, which accompanies all Moroccan social interactions by law. They would be cooking with sea bass. They had the advantage already.
Our vegetables, spices and kitchen implements were already laid out artfully in front of us when we started, just like an episode of Blue Peter. Everything was fresh and scrubbed and close to hand. Nevertheless, I panicked almost immediately, withdrawing from the cooking humour that I didn’t understand, sweat beading on my forehead as I clumsily diced fresh cumin and coriander.
Soon, though, I was saved. Madame Mona is clearly not about to let anyone leave the workshop with a substandard meal. Swooping in before I started to cry, she gently took the knife and atomised the herbs while I smiled gratefully. With the safety net established, I was free to spread my wings, and everything felt a lot better from there on out. I actually started to enjoy these alien motor functions; using a long knife to surgically pluck the “bad part” of a clove of garlic (there’s a tiny sliver in there which gives you bad breath. Did you know that? I didn’t know that) and scattering chilli, paprika and fresh sea salt like Tinkerbell.
I came to understand Noureddine’s assertion that Moroccan cookery is not complicated, but merely requires patience. Once I realised it wasn’t a race, I was able to keep up easily, and the creation of the tajine had a pleasingly logical flow. Madame Mona’s helper-elf tendencies are sometimes even too efficient: I was looking forward to sculpting my pickled lemon rind into the shape of a hand, but came back from the sink to find it had been done for me. Did she think I wouldn’t notice? I was very grateful she was there to help, though, and I probably benefited from the extra presentational pizzazz.
While the finished tajine cooked itself to perfection, we restocked on mint tea and took on the Harira challenge. That is, the challenge of making a delicious Harira. It’s a pretty simple but gorgeously flavoursome Berber soup: my favourite part was slipping the skins off the hot cherry tomatoes. Sensual.
The Meal
After about three and a half hours of relaxed cooking, we ate on the rooftop terrace of our hotel, the excellent Madada Mogador. The view of the marina was astounding, the company sublime, but what of the food? Well, it was amazing, of course it was. The dish I made seemed somehow more… flat than Georgie’s, but I maintain it tasted just as good. The Harira, served as a starter with a wedge of lime, was even better. We asked for seconds, but I know for a fact that there must have been some left over. I wonder what happens to it? I wouldn’t mind at all if Madame Mona treated herself to it as reward for a job well done. Not that it would be up to her regular standard.
Souk Tour
Essaouira Souk
If you do choose to go in for this uniquely rewarding experience (the reward is a delicious meal), then please take Noureddine up on his offer of showing you around Essaouira’s souk. The fish and spice markets are fascinatingly exotic, but can seem impenetrable to tourists. Noureddine has a wealth of knowledge to impart, but most interesting was a visit to his buddy Said’s spice shop. In a tiny room walled with glass jars, Noureddine took us on a sniffing tour of dozens of different herbs, explaining the use of every one.
Said made us the best mint tea I’ve ever had, bristling with spices and complex flavour, including a bit of herbal Viagra (I didn’t ask him to. He just put it in there.) Refreshingly, there’s absolutely no obligation to buy, which is perhaps why I splashed out on the only souvenir from my holiday, a bag of Said’s special spice mix for chicken, which set me back about 20p. It’s for my mum and dad. Georgie bought a chunk of gorgeous amber musk, which has been partying in her chest of drawers, keeping her scarves smelling nice.
This was the best day of the holiday by quite some distance. The fruits of my labour never tasted so good. Get them to teach you how to do a Pastilla and we can have a Moroccan dinner-party round your place.
Not Essaouira-bound? Still want to experience the joys of an authentic Moroccan cooking class? Riad Chi Chi in Marrakech now offer cooking classes starting from Dh 500 for one person. Chi Chi’s cook Khadija will show you how to prepare typical Moroccan dishes like aubergine salad (a hot favourite!), Moroccan salad, different varieties of tagine (lemon chicken with olives, or beef or lamb with prunes and almonds) and a Moroccan dessert. After that, you can eat up your freshly-prepared Moroccan meal in the peaceful courtyard or on the roof terrace – total foodie bliss!
Inspired? Check out our full listings for luxury hotels in Marrakech and luxury hotels in Essaouira
L’Atelier Madada Recipes
L’Atelier Madada Berber Tajine
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 1h15 to 1h30
For one person
Ingredients:
- 1 small chopped onion
- 1 tomato peeled and diced
- 1 garlic clove finely chopped
- 1 carrot peeled and cut into strips
- 1 large potato sliced
- 1 unpeeled courgette sliced
- 1 fennel sliced
- 1 artichoke bottom
- 50g small peas
- 20 green beans snapped in half
- 2 teaspoons of parsley, finely chopped
- 2 teaspoons of coriander, finely chopped
- 2 small cups of water
- 1 tablespoons of olive oil
- 1 teaspoon of ginger
- 1 teaspoon of turmeric
- 1 teaspoon of salt
- ½ teaspoon of black pepper
- 1 pinch of saffron
- 1 teaspoon of thyme
- 10 green olives
- ½ preserved lemon
* Start by peeling and finely slicing the onion, the tomato and the garlic. Place them in the bottom of the tajine and add the following spices: 1tsp parsley, 1tsp coriander, 1 table spoon of olive oil, 1tsp ginger, turmeric, black pepper, salt and a pinch of saffron. Mix well and cook on a low heat.
* After about 20 minutes, add the green beans and the peas and let cook on medium heat for another 30 minutes. Check from time to time if you need to add water, but use sparingly.
* After that half hour, add all the other vegetables, the preserved lemon, the olives and cook on a medium heat for about 45 minutes to an hour. If you like it spicy, add some chilli pepper.
* When the tajine is cooked, sprinkle with the rest of the coriander, parsley and a table spoon of olive oil.
L’Atelier Madada Harira Soup
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 1hr
For four people
Ingredients:
- 120g peeled chickpeas (should be soaked in cool water for 24hrs before)
- 120g lentils
- 100g vermicelli
- 2 teaspoons of salt
- 1 teaspoon of black pepper
- 1 teaspoon of ginger
- 1 teaspoon of turmeric
- ½ teaspoon of cinnamon
- 2 teaspoons of clarified butter (ghee)
- A pinch of saffron
- 2 litres of water
- 1 large grated red onion
- 50g white flour
- 2 tablespoons of finely chopped parsley
- 2 tablespoons of finely chopped coriander
- 2 tablespoons of finely chopped celery
- ½ litre of tomato juice
- 1 tablespoon of olive oil
- 1 egg
* In a large pot, put the grated onion, chickpeas, chopped celery, coriander, parsley, add all the spices, the clarified butter and the olive oil, and sear for about 10 minutes. Cover with water and let the soup boil for about 40 minutes.
* When the chickpeas are cooked, add the tomato juice and let cook for about 10 minutes. Mix the flour in a bowl with warm water until it is liquefied and there are no lumps.
* Pour the mixture into the pot very slowly while stirring with a wooden spoon. The result should be a thick soup, add more flour if it’s too watery.
* Add the vermicelli and keep mixing for about 10 minutes.
* Add a raw egg if desired and let cook for another 10 minutes.
NB:
This soup from Berber origin is usually served with hard boiled eggs sprinkled with cumin and salt, dates and other dried fruits like figs.
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Tags: Boutique Hotels, Cooking Classes, Essaouira, Food, Madada Mogador, Morocco
