In Granada there truly is such a thing as a free lunch. Enter any one of the hundreds of tapas bars in the city and you will be served free tapas (a small dish) with your beer or glass of wine.
But which bars? Choosing the more authentic tapas bars in Granada will ensure that your experience is just the same as the regulars propping up the bar alongside you. Here are five places that will treat you as a local, and not a tourist.
La Bodega de Antonio; Calle Jardines
The first time I visited this exceptional bar I was indeed treated as a tourist. But only when it came to the barman having to remember which bill was mine. In the majority of bars in Granada you pay when you leave, and not after each drink. So it was that the barman wrote “Guiri” on my bill. I laughed at being labelled as such. The politest definition of this name is: “A foreigner who talks nonsense.” A perceptive man, I thought.
The bar and restaurant are adorned in the green and white colours of Andalucia. The first tapas will likely be perfect paella. The Pulpo a la gallega (Octopus with peppers and paprika) is a delight.
Bodega Los Tintos; Calle San Isidro
A deep, narrow bar located a short walk from the department store El Corte Ingles. The consistency of this bar attracts plenty of regulars and, on Saturdays, is where many a tired shop worker and shopper go for lunch.
Fish in a light batter or the ever tasty Berenjenas con miel (Aubergines drizzled with honey) arrive in front of you in large quantities. No tiny tapa here. Indeed the servings can be as overflowing as the bar itself. Get there early to claim a seat or simply stand at the bar and admire the quick and efficient service from the two long-serving barmen.
La Esquinita; Campo del Principe
Another small bar that is lively at weekends. Ricardo runs the bar every bit as enthusiastically as he once ran marathons. An open kitchen allows you to view the preparation of the tapas on offer. Anticipation is all part of the tapas touring experience in Granada. What will I get next and will I like it? The answer to the former is, possibly, habas con jamón (broad beans with Serrano ham), or sautéed mushrooms. The answer to the latter question is most definitely, yes.
Ricardo often performs his party tricks to a captive audience. Hang around and you will be rewarded for your loyalty. The tapas gets better and better and the behind the bar stage show is memorable.
Las Tinajas; Calle Martinez Campos
In Granada there are ‘spit & sawdust’ bars, if that’s your sort of thing. Las Tinajas is more sartorial than shabby. Here “inappropriate clothing” will be frowned upon. This is the Granada equivalent of a pre-theatre bar, so don’t come in here wearing shorts and sandals. The food on offer in the bar is as exquisite as the waistcoats worn by the bar staff. They do things with Swiss chard that leave you wanting more and some of the finest wine available anywhere in Granada is served here.
Bar Espadafor; Calle Gran Via/Calle Tinajilla
In recent years a plethora of new tapas bars in Granada have opened up. However, for longevity, Bar Espadafor is a ‘senior citizen.’ Opened in 1910 the vast bar sits at one end of the long street Gran Via. Little has changed in a hundred years. The ancient tiles depict the sights and scenes of Granada.
As for the tapas… well, the good people running this bar have had many years’ experience, so it’s not surprising that dishes such as patatas a lo pobre (potatoes with green peppers) are among the best you’ll taste anywhere in Spain.
*This selection of five tapas bars in Granada was put together by Vernon Grant, author of “Granada Tapas Tours – 100 Tapas Bars in Granada” published by www.guiribooks.blogspot.com.
For more information on tapas bars in Granada: www.granadatapas.blogspot.com.
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Tags: Andalucia, Eating and Drinking, Food and Drink, Granada, Places to Eat, Spain
